Holbox is an island off the north coast of the Yucatan Peninsula, relatively near Cancun geographically but because it’s so hard to get to, it’s a world away in feeling. There’s no bridge to get there, so a ferry is necessary, and there are no cars allowed on the island, so everyone bops around in golf carts. The streets aren’t paved and the potholes are large enough to seem like craters. Perhaps 3,000-4,000 people live on the island permanently, and there are fewer than 20 hotels or lodging establishments. So all in all, it’s very small, completely bucolic, and oh so relaxing and romantic! We highly recommend this destination for honeymoons or just romantic trips for two, and you might just like a couple of the hotels as good bets for the wedding itself.
Because the resorts are all small and mostly mom-and-pop operations, the vibe is almost uniformly really low-key.
Many people who have been around here for years keep telling me that Holbox now is like Isla Mujeres and Cozumel used to be 20-30 years ago. And there are various efforts to begin building large high-rise hotel and condo developments, complete with golf courses, etc., but so far this island remains relatively undeveloped.
The little town itself is perhaps only five blocks wide and maybe 10 blocks long along the beachfront where all the accommodations are. Then to the east along the beach runs the main road out of town, giving access to all the rest of the small hotels and inns. For a while this road runs along the beach and the hotels are on the opposite side from the beach but then towards the end, the road turns inland, and the easternmost resorts have their own relatively private beaches. For this reason they’re a bit more highly recommended, but because they’re farther away, they’re slightly more inconvenient in case you want to go into town or do anything else off property. I would like to think that most things are walkable, but keep in mind the heat, the sun, and the humidity will make even the shortest stroll seem much longer than it really is.
Another thing to mention is the water. Here on the lee side of the Yucatan Peninsula fronting the Gulf of Mexico there is hardly any surf or wave action, so the water is mostly clear and calm all year around. In another geologic oddity the coastline here is ridiculously flat, so it’s possible to wade well out into the water while it’s still just up to your knees. The only minor downside in comparison to the Caribbean Sea, “just around the bend,” is that this water isn’t as crystal clear. It’s still incredibly beautiful, so don’t stay away at all because it’s not perfect—it’s just noticeable to anyone who’s experienced the water in the Caribbean.
Because the resorts are all small and mostly mom-and-pop operations, the vibe is almost uniformly really low-key. The majority of the tourists here are either European or Mexican nationals, and there are MANY couples (hence the plug for honeymoons). There is virtually no night life to speak of, and everything shuts down after dark except in the small number of restaurants. It’s even strongly suggested that you bring flashlights with you so that you can see to walk back home at night from wherever you may find yourself, since the sun can go down relatively early at night, at least in the winter.
Speaking of the winter, this is the only time of the year when Holbox is more negatively affected by the weather than on the Caribbean coasts. Occasionally there will be a cold front that roars through, coming straight down from Canada via the Great Plains and Texas. By the time one reaches this far into the tropics, it’s not really bringing cold air. However, the impulse of cooler and dryer air impacting the warm tropical “normal” air here can cause thunderstorms and rain squalls and high surf here because the beaches all face the north and west. After the storms pass, the weather is completely delightful, so it’s completely still worth coming here this time of year, but just assume that you’ll see lots of puddles in the streets for the golf carts to wade through. And there might be a little or a lot of sea grass washed up on the beaches.
One other general note. Wi-fi signals on the island are notoriously slow in general, and severely slow at some otherwise really great resorts. Here again the island vibe leads you to hear, “Well, you should be getting away from the internet anyway!”. But when you’re desperately trying to accomplish anything from “real life” while here, that’s not exactly what you want to be hearing! It definitely is possible to find a signal, but just keep in mind that it’s not going to be the same level of service as in a large city.
RECOMMENDATIONS:
HOTELS:
Hotel Mawimbi – My favorite hotel on the island, but they don’t do groups. Definitely great for honeymooners!
Las Tortugas – Small hotel and yoga center next to Mawimbi. Very lovely restaurant on the beach. Rooms are smack-dab on top of each other, mostly overlooking the swimming pool. Easy enough to do a buyout.
Paraiso del Mar – The largest hotel on the island so a buyout won’t be possible, but lovely facilities and great service.
Villas Flamingos – Relatively isolated and quite lovely–rooms mostly in cabanas with palapas surrounding large swimming pool. Bigger groups could consider a buyout.
RESTAURANTS:
El Chapulim – This is a relatively new restaurant (2010) that brings a gourmet touch to downtown Holbox. The chef creates a new menu daily and offers it personally to diners at each table. Not the cheapest option by far, but certainly one of the best!
Los Peleones – This is THE pasta place on the island, with generous portions and very tasty sauces. All the pasta is handmade onsite, and the restaurant definitely wins with its hysterical wrestling theme. Los Peleones means “The Fighters.”
Mandarina – Mandarina is the beachfront restaurant associated with the Casa Las Tortugas hotel, and wins rave reviews for its views, tropical ambience and fantastic, innovative food.
Rosa Mexicano – this small and a Little upscale restaurant is located on one of the main streets of Holbox town. The menu features Mexican classics and other favorites like coconut shrimp. Doesn’t look like too much from the street, but you should be pleased once you enter!
Barquito Mawimbi Hotel Beach Restaurant – this small beachside restaurant, part of the best-rated Mawimbi Hotel, serves Mexican favorites with heavy and obvious emphasis on seafood. Great waiters offer lovely and unhurried service.
ACTIVITIES:
Whale Sharks – Swimming with the whale sharks that migrate through these waters each summer is an adventure of a lifetime. They’re the largest fish in the world, and completely harmless because they filter feed on microscopic plankton. It isn’t guaranteed to find them, and the weather can be uncooperative, so please understand that it’s not like a theme park.
Wind surfing – there are several schools on the island and the breezes are normally quite dependable. With the Gulf waters being so shallow, it definitely facilitates getting back on when you (inevitably for me) fall off!
Sea kayaking through mangrove swamp – This is a great and not-too-strenuous way to connect with nature—complete with tons of sea birds and crocodiles, even flamingos, oh my!
Yalahau Lagoon – a freshwater spring or cenote empties out into a salt-water lagoon. Great for swimming and snorkeling and generally cooling off.
Sunsets – OK, it’s not Key West’s Mallory Square, but the sunsets on Holbox are about as close to that as you can get, often sprinkled with thunder clouds off in the distance. Definitely worth sticking around for!